Wednesday, June 27, 2012

No really, trust me



























Solid?
This past weekend I was fortunate enough to spend Saturday on Pinnacle Buttress and Sunday on Sliding Board at White Horse. On Pinnacle Buttress we came across several pins and on Sliding Board we came across some left over “booty” - a small nut and a carabiner. I clipped all of them. Some of them I backed up, and some I did not. The one’s that looked solid I clipped independently and the one’s that looked questionable, like the one pictured above, I backed up. Sometimes I feel absolutely confident about the placement and sometimes I do not.
Now I have not been climbing for very long, but I came to the realization that there is no set, sure-fire way to measure the durability of left over pins, passive or active protection while on a route. Cams, nuts, pins, old knotted up runners, and tricams that have been left behind during emergency repels, through the generosity of local care takers, or placed with a tad too much enthusiasm can be found all over the world. Sometimes they can be claimed as “booty”, ignored and not used, or provide the only protection to be found anywhere on that particular section of the route.
While climbing with three folks from Spain in the Fitz Roy Range (Amy Coulier, Aguja Guillaumet - East face) in January of 2011 I learned that not everyone looks at left over protection the same way. I was, compared to the rest of my party, far more skeptical of the integrity of the repel stations we were using. I did back one anchor up (to the amusement of my friends from Spain), but the rest of the stations passed my on site, thirty second scrutinies. A year later I landed on the other side of skeptical when I did not back up three pins as an anchor at the top of a climb on Cathedral called Black Lung. As far as my friend was concerned, a three pin anchor was not a safe option and it should have been backed up. I do not think, at this point, that I was wrong and he was right. Or, for that matter the other way around. What I do think is that when I climb with this particular friend I will take into consideration not only my judgement, but his.
For me there is a great deal of technical information that is essential to staying safe on a climb. No one should ever underestimate how important that can be. But there is also good old fashioned judgement that seems to be a mix of experience, art and confidence that is constantly shifting and expanding.

Wednesday, June 20, 2012

Why do threesomes need to be so complicated?

My guess is that many readers are hoping that this particular post will fall under our "external affairs" category. It does not. This particular threesome was a local event... Some readers, but not all, might be hoping that this post involves both men and women. It does not. This particular threesome involved three men... And I would imagine that there are thousands of readers (okay dozens) out there that are hoping and praying that this particular threesome does not involve any of the contributors from New England Adventures! Actually, it does. Both Brian and myself were involved... There is one more thing that this post does not do. It does not, in any way, have to do with what the French refer to as a Ménage à trois. Sorry...

More importantly, this post does deal with the trials and tribulations of climbing with three people on a multi-pitch climb. Specifically, this post deals with how to manage a group of three climbers that all want a chance to swing leads on a multi-pitch climb as efficiently as possible.
There are those out there that feel that the most efficient way to climb with three people is to leave one at home. This is probably true, but for me some days are about efficiency and others are about community. This past Saturday was one of those days were inclusion was the best option.
The Place:
It is important to mention that The Whitney Gilman can often be crowded on weekends and that climbing on the WG with three people on a weekend is probably not a great idea. That doesn’t mean it shouldn’t be done. It just means that other groups on the cliff may not like you.
The People:
Brian and I figured that having Josh along for one of our last “training” climbs before our trip to WY would slow things up a bit (two are faster then three), but also liven up the climb as well.
Josh and Pablo - post cruise goofin...
The Details:
 The first thing we did was chat about what would work and what would not. Once that was decided Brian jumped on the first pitch and started the climb with two ropes - we are all about using Brian’s Sterling Photons for the trip! Josh and I were both attached to an end while Brian climbed with two. I followed, cleaned the route and stripped Brian of his gear while Josh climbed. Once Josh arrived, I took Josh’s end of the rope and Josh took the end attached to Brian (this may not be comfortable for all folks). I started climbing with both ropes. Once I arrived I built an anchor and got off belay. Josh climbed, cleaned the route and stripped gear from me. Once Brian arrived, Josh took Brian’s end of the rope and Brian took the end of the same rope attached to me. Josh then began climbing with two ropes.  Little complicated to describe, but not to tough to do.  We continued this pattern for six pitches.
Beginning of second pitch

Sunday, June 17, 2012

When Black Flies Attack!

Many of us were fortunate enough to get out this weekend and enjoy the beautiful weather.  Having a great stretch of sunshine after weeks of rain is always a bonus.  There is, however, one thing that I never seem to be prepared for - the black fly season.
According to what I read this morning there are over 1,800 known species of black fly in the world today.  I also learned that they are an important part of the ecosystem and can be found throughout the world.  Of course the rational side of my brain totally understands how important these creatures are to the ecosystem.  Then there is the irrational side of my brain.  This part of my brain would love to wipe out the entire species as quickly as possible.  This past Friday night while at White Horse Ledge in North Conway I was reminded of something that I already knew: the power of one is no match for the power of many.
A simple outing gone awry...
When Brian and I arrived at the base of White Horse the black flies were nothing more then a nuisance.  It was not until the second anchor of Sliding Board that I fully realized what Brian and I were in for.  As soon as I stepped onto the small ledge the flood gates opened.  They swarmed around my head, crawled up into my helmet and within seconds had completely covered my shins and forearms.  I breathed them in and coughed them up.  There was little I could do other then build my anchor and belay Brian up to the ledge so he could join in on all the fun.
My shins, arms and neck became an all you can eat buffet....
Brian did not stay long.  He quickly stripped the gear from my harness and began to climb.  I guess he thought he could climb above the swarm and leave them behind.  No such luck.  I could see Brian swatting and swinging his arms wildly against the onslaught.  Not an easy thing to do while trying to keep one's balance.  This could have turned tragic since Brian was at least 30 feet above his last piece of protection.
A couple pitches later we put our tails between our legs and began our retreat.  As much as we wanted to continue the climb and enjoy the evening, there was little we could do other then run and hide from the insatiable hunger of the black fly...


Wednesday, June 13, 2012

Fountain of Youth!

Doesn't exist.  Sorry...
But I am pretty sure that there are other alternatives that may help deal with the growing old process.   One alternative is eating well and the other is staying fit.  The eating well part will not be dealt with in this post, but one perspective on the staying fit part will.  As the oldest member of the NEA blog crew I will do my best to provide some insight.  Feel free to chime in...
I have never been great at training in a conventional sense.  The very idea of it brings back memories of screaming football coaches, misplaced testosterone and the smell of mud.  Now that I am about to reach the ripe old age of 46, and I have had a litany of injuries, I feel like it is time to share some ideas around this topic and investigate what works for me as well as what doesn’t.
While I was a teenager I spent my days going to one form of practice or another.  Back then it was all about lifting weights or doing sprints.  We ran around a track, threw long metal spears and heavy metal balls, and slammed into other pubescent boys while fighting over a pigskin.  All of this was done in a very orderly fashion that did include five minutes at the beginning of each practice (or game) stretching in unison.  But to me this always seemed to be more about some sort of pregame choreography then really loosening up.
Thirty years later most of my time is spent trying to keep my body functioning properly rather then trying to achieve some sort of Olympic grade, peak performance.  At this point what works best for me is a simple one to four equation - one hour of body friendly training for every four hours of body draining activities.  Body friendly activities include yoga, Pilates, road riding and high repetition weight training.  Body draining activities include climbing (especially pulling plastic), hiking, and mountain bike riding.
Another aspect of training that I think is really important is the idea of lifestyle training versus non-lifestyle training.  In my world lifestyle training is focusing on activities that the participant enjoys.  Non-lifestyle training is doing activities that the participant only does in order to get stronger.  Now that I have said that I feel like I need to make a big distinction here - I am not trying to achieve peak performance, or participate in a competitive sport.  I am just trying to maintain a healthy level of strength, endurance and flexibility so that I can continue to participate in the activities that I most enjoy.  There are exceptions to this philosophy (to be discussed below), but in general this seems to work pretty well for me...
How to beat a floating shoulder...

One exception in the training regimen is injury recovery Recently I have been suffering from a shoulder issue.  I believe the cause of this issue has several components.  The first being an old collar bone dislocation that needed surgery.  The second and third components have to do with over and under training.  The over training came in the form of an over use injury caused by pulling overhanging plastic holds at the gym.  I believe this injury could have been avoided if I had not been under training the opposing muscles in the front of the shoulders and the pectoral area.  In my case the under training was not training the opposition muscles at all.
Now I am dealing with what I refer to as the "mysterious floating shoulder".  I can push the external flank of my left shoulder and the socket will move in and out of the joint with a slight popping sound deep in the cavity of the shoulder.  Not very comforting to say the least.  I can still pull hard while climbing and exercising, but I feel that by doing so I only perpetuate the injury.  I have continued to climb (although with caution) outside and have begun to do a series of exercises that involve yoga classes, high repetition weight training and a series of activities involving a large resistance, exercise band.
I have chosen not to see a doctor about my shoulder.  In the past I have spent a great deal of time and effort waiting for appointments so a doctor to tell me something I already know - my shoulder is messed up.  After I find out from the doctor what is wrong with my shoulder then the process of finding a decent physical therapist begins.  This involves lots of phone calls and more time.  After a few visits the physical therapist will then provide me with a list of exercises that I should do.  After that, a few more weeks to a month, the physical therapist will do another evaluation.  This is not a criticism, it is just the way these things work.  Since I am leaving in a few weeks for the Wind River Range I decided to skip the doctor, phone calls, and physical therapy appointments and go strait to the exercise component myself.  Time will tell if this decision was a wise one.

Another part of the training process that I have recently figured out is that it is not good to train full throttle all the time.  Long blocks of rest, moderate training stretches and accelerated training phases are all part of the process.  Since Brian and I are leaving in a couple of weeks I have decided to train a little harder then usual.  As of late I have integrated one more yoga class a week (two a week total), one night of road work on my bike, two days of squats and lunges and more hiking over the weekends. I will only train like this for a couple of weeks prior to my trip.  Then, when I get back, I will take a real rest.  At least for a couple of days.
One step at a time...


Saturday, June 9, 2012

Give em enough rope...

Erik's last post is a timely one.  Brian and I have been mulling over the double vs single rope situation for our up coming trip to the Cirque of the Towers in the Wind River Range.  Seventy meter Nano?  Two photons?  One sixty meter workhorse?  Two fifties?  Region, rock type, weather condition, style and route are all variables that need to be considered.
According to Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills the advantages of twins and doubles are: rope friction can be greatly reduced, falls can be shorter, two ropes are less likely to get severed in rockfall or sharp edges, and two ropes are available for rappel.  The book also points out advantages when protecting the second from pendulum falls and when doing traverses.  Another important aspect is that when clipping gear slack can be given to one rope while the other can remain taught.
I started surfing the web looking for answers, but could not find "the answer". 
The reason that there is no definitive answer that works for all climbers is that all climbers are different.  I asked Erik for his advise and he pointed out that the climber is another variable that needs to be considered.  A technical route that might be challenging for me, might be considered extremely easy for someone else.  Some climbers can cruise through the remainder of a route and top out before the thunder storm hits, while other climbers might chose to bail off the climb and rappel down to safety.
After all sorts of searching and pondering I feel like I have made up my mind about what I would like to bring to The Winds with us, but I am still open to suggestions and comments from folks who have climbed in The Winds or similar places.  Feel free to post a comment and let me know what you think.  The more information I have to consider the happier I will be...

Tuesday, June 5, 2012

Urban Adventure

So far this June Maine has seen about five inches of new rain fall and New Hampshire has seen over 6.5 inches.  For some folks the excessive rain is just a mild annoyance - just break out the umbrella and call it good.  For some this type of rain leads to washed out bridges, flooded basements and inundated gardens.
For those that like to rock climb this type of weather is the proverbial kiss of death.  Even after the rock dries it will take days, if not weeks, for the water to finish leaching out onto and over different parts of the cliff.  Hikers, bike riders and paddlers can continue their pursuits, but often this type of weather leads to limited visibility and sloppy trails - not the type of conditions that most folks look forward to.
So when the weather gets tough, the tough go urban.  This is why we have included an Urban Adventure category in this blog.
No fear wear....
My personal urban adventure started on the Down Easter, spilled out onto the subways of Boston and up to my buddies place on Beacon Hill.  From there we explored a couple of drinking establishments, practiced our piracy skills at the Wilbur Theater and then meandered our way from late night food street vendors back to Beacon Hill.
Dark Star Orchestra
Boston is a dynamic, beautiful city.  I try not to fret too much about it's occupants and the special characteristics they tend to demonstrate.
Even though it was pouring on Saturday we made the best of the day.  Brunch, lots of chill time and general communal foolishness and picture taking made the less then perfect weather irrelevant.
The kidz
All of this down time provided us with plenty of time to take pictures, prepare for the next leg of our journey and enjoy some good old fashion conversations.
Soon we were loaded up, on our way out of Boston and heading north to Hampton Beach.  For those of you that have not yet been to Hampton Beach, more specifically the Hampton Casino, it is a great venue and town.  Hampton is a tad on the cheesy side, but it has an impressive stretch of beach and has recently added a fantastic new outdoor theater and an extended waterfront.  From our hotel room we could see out into the ocean as the wind and surf surged onto the deserted beach.
Pre-Show Crew
The rest of the evening turned out to be as wild as the weather outside.  We all had lots of fun and eventually made it back to the hotel with some level of controlled chaos.  Although urban adventure may not be as close to my heart as climbing, it comes in as a close second...